Route 66- hailed as the Mother of all roads. 2,278 miles of everlasting appeal. Nat King Cole, Bing Crosby, and Chuck Berry put it to music. Later, The Rolling Stones, Manhattan Transfer, and Depeche Mode did, too. John Steinbeck wrote about it in one of the greatest American novels ever penned- The Grapes of Wrath. Hollywood adores it and used it to set the stage for some of the most famous movies of the 20th century- Easy Rider, Thelma & Louise, and Natural Born Killers. And who can forget Cars, Pixar’s 2006 beloved animated classic based upon some of the Road’s most memorable locations and historic figures? Route 66 is an American icon.
So, we thought we’d see why.
In 2022, we planned a road trip from Tennessee to New Mexico. Since we’d be traveling Interstate 40, and Route 66 runs parallel through three states, how could we not see at least a little legendary blacktop? Could we call ourselves Americans if we didn’t? So, I started up the research engine, dropped some pins on Google Maps, and made one of my infa-must-see lists. We were on our way for some Mother truckin’.
Now, here’s the thing. I wasn’t all hip to the ride at first, and to be honest even now I’m not sure I could be convinced to drive the entire Chicago to Los Angeles route. Our drive wasn’t regrettable, just not what I expected.
I’d say Route 66 is the perfect drive for anyone interested in seeing things fallen into disrepair, ruined by graffiti, or extant only by signs acknowledging, “This used to be here and man, was it ever cool.” Stark reminders of what America sacrifices for the sake of progress -old gas stations, diners, shops, motels, water towers- yes sir, Route 66 has them all. When I decided to write this post, I was all gassed up to dispel the myth of the Mother. It isn’t so special after all.
And then I had a blank page before me. What to write? I mentally began sorting through memories of all we did and saw, and there was no denying the truth. We had a damn good time. So, I’m swapping gears and telling you what really happened.
On the Mother Road to New Mexico
El Reno, Oklahoma
Sometimes (many times, actually), I’m an idiot. When my husband said he booked a hotel in El Reno for our first night on the road, I thought we’d be staying where a man got shot and the killer just watched him die. Maybe because Johnny Cash is such an icon, it made sense to me that the vicious bloke in Folsom Prison must have committed his crime on Route 66. Did you know there’s no “El” in the song? Of course, you did.
We got to El Reno late and left early the next morning, so we didn’t see much of the place. What we did see was noteworthy, if only for a Post-It, with the Route 66 monument being the highlight.
Next to the monument is a “love lock” rack in the shape of the state of Oklahoma. What the heck? Are you familiar with these? Maybe you want to bring a lock if you stop by. My question is, “Where are all the keys?”
Alanreed, Texas
Now, on to Texas! The first “can’t miss” if coming from east Texas is the Gray County Safety Rest Area in Alanreed, a testament that everything really is bigger in Texas. Yes, I said a rest area. I promise it’s worth a stop in more ways than one.
Who would expect this incredible, bucolic scene along the interstate? Did you know Texas had rolling hills like this?
The sidewalks and railings even had the Lone Star state in mind. I’m still amazed there was this kind of artistry at a rest area!
Prepare yourself to stall a moment before or after you visit the facilities when you get inside. The big metal windmill sculpture surrounded by lots of trivia about Texas was totally unexpected. We stayed longer than we planned.
Adrian, Texas
Drumroll, please. Our favorite Route 66 stop on the way to New Mexico… Midpoint Cafe in Adrian. I know I said another Route 66 road trip would be a hard sell, but you might convince me if you promise I’ll get another slice of Midpoint pie. We take our pie seriously. If a place acclaimed for pie is reasonably close, decision made. We’re going.
Even though it was lunchtime, we ate dessert first. We were watching our budget, and our homemade sandwich wraps in the truck could wait. Oh, the guilt! But all was forgiven when I tasted that coconut cream. Pure ecstasy! Maybe the best I’ve ever eaten. Gary considered getting a second giant piece after eating Midpoint’s famous chocolate cream. He agreed it might be the best pie he’d ever eaten, too. Look how happy we are!
Midpoint is an old-school diner with crazy kitsch and a lot of history. The outside is staged with old junkers featuring personalities from the movie Cars. Did you know Flo’s V8 Cafe was totally inspired by Midpoint and its ugly crust pies? I didn’t. To be honest though, I’ve only seen the movie half-awake.
Midpoint Cafe is actually the midpoint of Route 66. There’s even a line across the middle of the road and a sign in case you don’t know where you are.
Take my advice. Stop here for the pie. If you don’t, you’re nuts. I hate to be judgmental, but…
Now, on to New Mexico
Glenrio, New Mexico
I was so disappointed to learn that in 2023 Russell’s Truck Stop in Glenrio was bought by TA Travel Center. More progress. (Sigh.) I was afraid Russell’s would lose some of its character, but from what I hear, TA kept the best part, and you’ve got to see it! Why? Because there’s actually a car museum inside! I dropped a pin here, because I knew Gary would like it. He sure did.
Go ahead and gas up while you’re here. New Mexico is a wasteland when it comes to interstate exits. The state itself is freaking amazing, but you’d never know it by what you see from the interstate. I’ll tell you all about it later. Those are some stories!
No Amarillo? No Oklahoma City?
Of course, we did. What Route 66 tourist doesn’t stop at Cadillac Ranch? And what tourist doesn’t take a detour to see the Oklahoma City National Memorial? What? You don’t know about the Memorial? No worries. I’ll tell you all about what you shouldn’t miss in my article, Oklahoma City National Memorial.
P.S.- We didn’t stop at Midpoint Cafe on the way home. Talk about needing some kicks on Route 66. Some swift kicks in the kneecaps. But I knew we’d be back some day. I was right. We traveled west all the way to Flagstaff, Arizona in 2025. There’s more to come on that adventure including more coconut cream pie!
From the Library
This is perhaps Nobel Prize winner John Steinbeck’s most famous novel. I recommend everyone read it for an understanding of how Route 66 became the Mother Road during the Great Depression when farmers gave up on their Midwest dreams and migrated to California for what they prayed was a better life.