Holy Karst! Cathedral Caverns is Amazing!

Two years ago, we drove from Tennessee to New Mexico to visit as many of the state’s National Park sites as we could in 10 days. One of those sites was Carlsbad Caverns. Was the drive worth it? Definitely. Carlsbad Caverns blew me away! I thought I’d never see anything like it again- until I saw Cathedral Caverns in north Alabama just 3 hours from home. Holy karst, Cathedral Caverns is amazing! You’ve got to see it to believe it!

Where is it?

Cathedral Caverns is tucked away in Woodville, AL, a small town about 2 hours northeast of Birmingham, AL and 1.5 hours southwest of Chattanooga, TN. If you’re traveling close to the area, it’s absolutely worth a detour. If you live in the area, go ahead and make it a destination.

What makes it so amazing?

The incredible speleothems, for starters. What the heck are speleothems? They are cave formations caused by mineral deposits. (You’ll see.) Cathedral Caverns has ‘thems galore, including one of the largest known stalagmites in the world! The appropriately named “Goliath” tops out at 45 feet (13.7 meters) tall and measures 243 (74 meters) feet in circumference. That’s one giant deposit! Cathedral Caverns also houses jaw-dropping examples of columns, canyons, breakdown, and my favorite- flowstone. Don’t speak “caveman”? No worries. Cave tour guides will identify and distinguish formations for you. No prior geology knowledge needed!

*If you’d like a deeper dive into speleothems before you head to Cathedral Caverns, the National Park Service has a lot of great information HERE.

A teeny-tiny bit of geology might be helpful before we get started.

Do you wonder what “karst” in the “Holy Karst” title means? Karst is a type of topography conducive to the creation of caves. Typically, it’s a landscape with a whole lot of limestone. Water breaks down the calcium carbonate in limestone and then… well, that’s as far as I’m going with it. Rocks dissolve. A cave forms. Let’s go with that.

And before there’s any confusion, “caves” and “caverns” are not exactly the same. “Caverns” fall under the umbrella of “caves”. All caverns have speleothems. All caves do not. That’s the easy explanation. I’m using the term “cave” here, because it’s shorter and I like it better.

Now back to what makes this cave amazing.

Besides the formations, the estimated 8 million to 200-million-year-old cave has the largest natural commercial cave entrance in the world. It’s a whopping 126 feet (38.4 meters) wide by 25 feet (7.6 meters) high! Yet another feather in this cave’s cap.

If it boasts some of the “world’s largest”, why isn’t Cathedral Caverns a National Park? Good question. It was designated as a National Natural Landmark in 1972 but has never been owned by the federal government. Currently, the park is owned and managed by the state of Alabama, and I’m not complaining. If you’re a National Park junkie like me, you know what National Park status means. Crazy crowds, packed tours, and in some cases, the need for a lottery system or reservations months ahead. I’ll take Cathedral Caverns as it is, thank you very much!

The history here is pretty cool, too.

Well, I won’t go back 200 million years, but suffice it to say Cathedral Caverns has a storied past. The cave was formed out of limestone deposited over 300 million years ago. (Karst, remember?) That in itself is a story you should let sink in for a second.

Archaeologists date human activity in the cave as far back as 8,000 years. The cave was used by Native American tribes for shelter and as a center for trading. As recently as 200 years ago, Creek and Cherokee tribes were still using the cave.

In the early 1800’s, the Wright family moved into the Jackson County area. When they weren’t able to build their home as quickly as hoped, Native Americans helped the Wrights make a temporary home inside the cave.

During the Civil War, Cathedral Caverns was used as a saltpetre (saltpeter) mine. Saltpetre is potassium nitrate, a major component of gunpowder. Many caves in the U.S. were mined for saltpetre during the Revolutionary War, the War of 1812, and the Civil War. But let’s get to the most interesting part. What exactly came out of the cave to make this gunpowder? No crap- bat guano! (Guano is crap, by the way.) Makes me want to describe people as “saltpetre crazy” now, instead of…you know.

Eventually, the land changed hands, and the Kennamer family moved in. They owned the cave during the Civil War and built a community around it called Kennamer’s Cove. After Union soldiers burned their home, the Kennamers, like the Wrights before them, found temporary shelter in the cave.

At some point (date is uncertain), the cave became known as “Bat Cave”.

In 1952, Bat Cave was purchased by Jacob Gurley for $4,000. Let that percolate. An entire 11,000 foot (3400 meter) jewel box for $4,000! Gurley wasn’t a professional caver. He was curious. Curious enough to sink all of his savings in an underground dream. Gurley excavated paths by hand and began public tours in 1954. Tickets were 25 cents.

Gurley rebranded the cave “Cathedral Caverns” after his wife told him she thought the cave’s interior reminded her of a cathedral. I can see that.

People often compare caves to cathedrals. Will Rogers, world famous actor of the 1930’s described Carlsbad Caverns as having “all the cathedrals in the world in it, half of ‘em hanging upside down.” Perfect analogy. I feel the same. My poem “Contrition” is about my spiritual connection with caves. You can read it HERE.

Cathedral Caverns was open to the public until it changed ownership in 1974. The new owner ran the cave operation into the ground, so to speak, but in 1987, the State of Alabama came to the rescue. The state purchased the cave and made plans to create Cathedral Caverns State Park. It wasn’t until 2000 that the public was welcomed back for tours.

There is so much fascinating history surrounding this cave I can’t begin to do it justice in this post. You’ll hear a lot more about it during the cave tour. (Ask about the helium balloon!) You can also find a really good account of the cave’s story in Smoky Mountain Living Magazine’s article HERE if you want to delve even further.

Let’s take a tour, shall we?

This is what you came for, right? I promise you won’t be disappointed! Tours are offered every day except Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. You can’t enter the cave without taking a guided tour and reservations are strongly recommended. You can reserve tickets up to 7 days in advance by phone or online HERE. Pick up your physical tickets inside the Visitor Center when you arrive. We were able to reserve tickets online two days before our Saturday 12:00 PM tour, but I would suggest reserving even earlier. There is only one tour to choose from and it’s offered year-round at hourly intervals from 10 AM – 4 PM daily. No pets are allowed on tours or in park buildings.

What does the tour cost?

I was so happy to learn that the tour is AFFORDABLE! You get a big bang for your buck which is so important these days, especially for families. Adult tickets are $20. A military discount is available. The price for adults is pretty much in line with National Park tour prices, but a child’s ticket price? That’s where it’s at! Children under 4 years of age are free. (They still need a ticket, though. Make sure you reserve one for each child.) Tickets for children ages 5-12 are $9 each, and over age 13 costs the same as adults. Always double-check the park’s website for updates.

How many people will be on the tour?

One of the things I particularly liked about Cathedral Caverns was the tour size. There are no more than 60 people allowed per tour. Compared to Mammoth Cave which allows over 100 people on some tours, Cathedral Caverns is much more relaxed. Our tour wasn’t full, but all the other tours sold out that day.

*The park website points out that school field trips are welcomed. You may want to check with the park before you reserve tickets to make sure you aren’t on the same tour as a school group. If you go with a school group, you’re guaranteed to find out how well the cave echoes. Keep that in mind.

How long is the tour?

The tour lasts approximately 1.5 hours, and you will be walking a total of 1.5 miles on the out-and-back cave trail.

During the last half of the tour, we were encouraged to take our time, get a second look at things, and get photos we missed on the first half. That’s the upside of an out-and-back trail. If you have a really nice guide, they may be willing to take your photo in front of some formations at the end of the tour.

What should you wear?

Whatever you want except flip-flops. Trust me, it’s best not to wear those. Active caves (ones with water present) can have slick paths. Cathedral Caverns is an active cave, so comfortable walking shoes with tread are recommended.

Since caves stay cool year-round, I’m most comfortable wearing a long sleeve shirt (or jacket) and hiking pants or jeans. Cathedral Caverns stays a consistent 58 degrees. You do you.

Is the tour accessible?

Not exactly. The cave trail although paved, smooth, and wide, is not wheelchair/scooter friendly due to steep inclines. Note the park doesn’t say the trail is “inaccessible”. It’s just not the friendliest trail. If you are able to walk 1.5 miles and negotiate steep inclines, you will probably enjoy it but know your limits.

*Note: I went to Cathedral Caverns 4 weeks after an outpatient abdominal surgery. I was going stir crazy at home but wasn’t nearly recovered enough to do a real hike. My husband stumbled upon some information about Cathedral Caverns and suggested we make the trip. What a genius idea! I had zero trouble walking the trail, and we had a fantastic day.

Is it safe?

Cathedral Caverns is classified as a “show cave”, because it is open to the public for tours, and it accommodates public use with electric lighting and safe walkways. Compared to some caves I’ve toured; Cathedral Caverns is well-lit and has an excellent walking path. Handrails are available throughout. There were no areas that felt claustrophobic along the trail, and no areas where I felt unsafe. You do have to watch your head in a few spots, though!

Our guide gave us the chance to experience total darkness for a few seconds about halfway through the tour. If you’ve never been in total darkness, then get ready! It’s wild, a little freaky, and a lot electrifying. But just for a few seconds. You’re safe. I’ve been on many cave tours over the years, and almost all have included the total darkness bit. In case 15 seconds in the dark is a deal-breaker for you (and I hope it isn’t), I’m warning you up front.

What will you see?

Right off the bat, we saw one. (A bat.) I would have missed it if another visitor hadn’t pointed it out. Those critters are small! That was the only wildlife we saw on the whole tour. I don’t know about you, but I’m good with not seeing a lot of bats in a closed environment. I had a bad bat experience in Yosemite National Park earlier this year. I still shudder when I think about it.

Within the first few minutes, our guide used his flashlight to show off some cool fossils. Can you believe there’s actually an ancient shark tooth sticking out of the cave ceiling? This whole area used to be an ocean some 200 million years ago. The fossils are the leftovers.

And of course, you’ll see speleothems. They steal the show! I’ve been in lots of caves over the years, and I appreciate the uniqueness of each one. Still, even I am most dazzled by the caves with dramatic formations. The ones in Cathedral Caverns are top notch. You will be gobsmacked!

We visited Cathedral Caverns in November 2024 after a prolonged dry period, so there were no wet areas on the trail. Mystery River was a trickle compared to years with more rainfall. The silently flowing Mystery River runs throughout the cave and baffles visitors and experts alike. What’s the mystery? So far, experts have found no known source.

Guides will give you some interesting history about the river including the story of how Jacob Gurley got caught in a flood. You’ll be able to look down and see the area where Gurley was exploring when it happened. Don’t worry. The cave will close during periods of extreme rain. Safety first.

Below are photos of Mystery River and what appears to be deep crevasses, but actually are the water’s reflection of the stone formations above. Mind-bending!

I don’t want to spoil it for you, so I’ll only show you a few more photos from inside. (Yes, you can take all the pictures and video you want.) With its massive forests and waterfalls of stone, delicate dripstone, and quirky stone impressions of a unicorn and Barbie^TM in her car (for real), Cathedral Caverns is a wonderland you don’t want to miss! I hope you get there soon.

Is there anything else to do?

Gemstone Mining

Finally- and all the kids are going to love this. Gemstone mining! More gemstone “sluicing”, but “mining” sounds so much more appealing.

Inside the Visitor Center gift shop, you’ll find various sizes of seeded dirt mix that is full of hidden gemstones, fossils, and arrowheads. Every bag will have lots of treasure! Pick out and purchase your bag (larger families may want to buy a bucket to divide among each child) and head out to the flumes across the street. Employees will show you how to pan the dirt and identify what you find. Does all this treasure come from the Cathedral Caverns area? Come on, now. No.

Even though I was exhausted after the drive and tour, I really enjoyed the less than 10 minutes it took to do this. (More than I’d like to admit.) I was reminded of a childhood trip with my family to Crater of Diamonds State Park in Arkansas. I found some small pieces of quartz that day. They were the most valuable things my little self ever owned. Good times! Compared to Crater of Diamonds, I got a real haul at Cathedral Caverns. I even got an arrowhead!

Hiking

If the cave’s not enough for you, I hear the hiking’s good, too. There are over 5 miles of hiking trails in Cathedral Caverns State Park waiting for you before or after your tour. Unfortunately, we couldn’t hike due to my recent surgery, but next time, for sure.

There are other terrific hiking opportunities fairly close to Cathedral Caverns including:

• High Falls Park – Grove Oak, AL (52 miles)
• Noccalula Falls State Park – Gadsden, AL (53 miles)
• DeSoto Falls State Park – Fort Payne, AL (56 miles)
• Little River Canyon National Preserve – Fort Payne, AL (56 miles)
• Cloudland Canyon State Park – Rising Fawn, GA (68 miles)
• Rickwood Caverns State Park – Warrior, AL (71 miles)

Camping

If you are a camper, there are 25 full-service campsites available in addition to numerous primitive sites. The campground was revamped and expanded in 2022, and from what I could tell, a peaceful place to spend a few days. Who wouldn’t want to sit around a campfire, tell tall tales, and relax after a long day in the park? I’m not a camper, but it sounds nice to me!

Food

There is no food or drink other than water allowed on cave tours, so plan accordingly. Foreign substances like sugared drinks and food can cause irreparable damage to caves. Sounds crazy, but it’s true. Snacks are available in the gift shop and there’s a picnic area if you pack your own food. If you are determined to sit down in a restaurant, you can head to Scottsboro, AL (25 minutes from the park) for a variety of dining options. We brought our lunch for a picnic but later tried Fifty Taters in Scottsboro for an early dinner on the way home. It has a wide variety of burgers, sandwiches, and other entrees. It was good, but very crowded even at 3:00 PM.

And the verdict is…

I think you’ll agree, Cathedral Caverns is amazing! All caves are windows into the storehouse of earth’s wonder- an earth we think we understand but never will completely. I’m kind of glad we don’t. If we fully understood the earth, we’d never be surprised by it. Never be in awe of it. Where’s the fun in that? So, get out. Have fun. See Cathedral Caverns and be ready to be amazed!