Best Served on the Rocks- Joshua Tree National Park

There are so many options when it comes to Joshua Tree’s menu of hiking trails. Choosing can become a real challenge, especially when you’re short on time. But one thing’s for sure. Joshua Tree is best served on the rocks!

We set out to sample five of the park’s most popular “Rocks”- Split Rock, Skull Rock, Heart Rock, Arch Rock, and Cap Rock- on Day 2 of our time in Joshua Tree. Here’s my take on each of the trails.

Split Rocks in Joshua Tree

Split Rock Trail

Split Rock Trail is located on the east end of Park Boulevard about 3 miles west from Pinto Basin Road. If traveling northeast on Park Boulevard, Split Rock trailhead will be on your left about .6 miles past Skull Rock.

An ideal short hike or half-day trek.

At 2.5 miles, Split Rock is a good choice for those wanting more than a nature walk, but less than a half-day hike. It is rated moderate with little elevation gain and best done early in the day. We completed the trail in about 2 hours including time for lots of photos and even more mischief. (You’ll see.)

If you want a longer hike, you can connect Split and Skull Rock trails by way of Discovery Trail, making the hike approximately 6 miles. (Get a park map from the Visitor Center.) Just remember you are in a desert. Personally, I would never start a 6-mile hike in Joshua Tree midday, especially between May and September. You increase your chances of heat exhaustion and dehydration, especially in the hotter months. Those things will sneak up on you! Start early.

We chose to drive to the Skull Rock trailhead and hike it separately. Unless you have more than a couple of days in the park, I recommend doing the same. (You’ll see why later.)

Man hiking Split Rock

Five Star Views!

We thought Split Rock was the perfect way to start a day in the desert. Are you ready for some exceptional desert views? I hope so, because that’s what you’re going to get!

Joshua Tree National Park Split Rock Trail Desert Landscape View

Where’s the Split?

So where is this Split Rock we’re supposed to be looking for? Looking back, it’s hilarious I thought there would be a single commanding split rock defining the trail. (Maybe there is, and I missed it.) After asking my husband about ten times, “Do you think that’s it?”, I realized split rocks were everywhere! Duh.

A little mischief on the side.

There are lots of what I’ll call “interesting” rocks on this trail, too. Some are side-splitting funny (pun absolutely intended). Here are a few. I was naming them all over the place. This is where the mischief comes in. Don’t judge me.

Joshua Tree National Park Split Rock Trail Crack Rock
I named this one Crack Rock (as in butt crack). I had to draw and name my favorite rock as part of my Junior Ranger activities. The Ranger checking my work cracked up laughing when she saw it. (Again, pun intended.)
Joshua Tree National Park Split Rock Trail Mischief Rocks Body Parts
Joshua Tree National Park Split Rock Trail Dirty Rock


Skull Rock Trail

Roadside View of Skull Rock

Skull Rock Trail is rated easy in the park literature, and that’s one reason it’s so incredibly popular. The other reason should be obvious. A huge skull draws attention.

Get here early in the high season to beat the crowds and get parking; early being as in 8 AM (or earlier)- 9:30 AM. Unless you want a bunch of strangers in your photos with the skull, then go ahead and get here any time after that. I’ve read Skull Rock is great to see at sunset, too.

My motto- You can’t be at every ideal sunset spot at the same time. See what you can, when you can, and get on with it.

Close-up of Skull Rock on Trail in Joshua Tree National Park California
Close-up of Skull Rock

You’ll be hiking a little less than 2 miles if you decide to do the entire Skull Rock loop. But if you like reading interpretative signs and taking lots of photos like I do, plan to spend about two hours here.

If you have kids, they will be eager to climb on the rocks, so allow time for that. They are tempting. I felt too old that day to try it.

Please note: If you allow your kids to climb the rocks in Joshua Tree, make sure you watch them closely! The rocks are a natural playground, but dangerous if you’re not careful.

Hiker on a Rock Featuring Dike on Skull Rock Trail

Wildlife on the Skull & Split Rock Trails

Our trail guide was this vibrant yellow and black bird flying bush to bush just ahead of us. I found out later it’s a Scott’s Oriole- a desert bird that thrives in palm and cottonwood oases, Joshua tree forests, and areas where yucca is abundant. Now that’s a bird I can identify with. I know I was thriving the whole time I was in Joshua Tree!

Did you see the big lizard on the “interesting” rock in the Split Rock Trail photos? In case you missed it, here’s a close-up.

I’m not sure if this is a chuckwalla, and I sure as heck didn’t get close enough to find out. Look at the size of that sucker! For perspective, I’m 5’10” and the rock the lizard was sitting on was taller than me. It was the biggest lizard I’d ever seen! I was ready for a freak-out if it moved. Thank God, it didn’t.

The only other wildlife we saw on the trail was a rabbit and some bees. Yeah, about the bees…, well, just click on over HERE when you’re in the mood for a story, and I’ll tell you. I’ll be okay if I never see those again. At least, not in those circumstances.

Let the Desert Grow on You- Flora on the Skull & Split Rock Trails

I used to believe the desert was devoid of life. Just an unappealing endless sea of sand and rocks. But after visiting Southwest deserts many times now, I’ve changed my mind. Deserts are full of life and are some of the prettiest and most interesting landscapes to behold. My favorite landscape, in fact.

The plants that call these arid places home speak to me. No matter the challenge, they survive. Here are a few of the species we saw on Split and Skull Rock Trails.

I’m not sure what the pink-stemmed one is, but I’d love to know. The other two look like hedgehog cactus and beavertail cactus. If you know what all of these are, please let me know in the comments.

Notice what you don’t see? I haven’t showcased Joshua trees so far. It may come as a surprise, but this park isn’t crammed with Joshua trees everywhere you look. This area is rather sparse when it comes to the park’s namesake.

We found splendid groves of Joshua trees in the park’s northwestern region! I think because you aren’t inundated with Joshua trees here, you are able to appreciate their individual beauty even more.

Joshua tree on Skull Rock Trail in Joshua Tree National Park

Can’t Miss Rock Features

Don’t miss all the dikes on the trails. Wait, what? Dikes are the vein-like necklaces of rock embedded in boulders all over the park. Take a moment and be amazed. The history of this place is told in these trailing stories of stone. Definitely one of the most fascinating things I saw in Joshua Tree National Park.

“Geologists have a saying- rocks remember.” – Neil Armstrong

Skull Rock Dike Joshua Tree National Park California


Dikes form when magma deep in the earth rises and seeps into fractured rocks. The magma fills the fracture, cools, and solidifies to create a chain of new rocks. (This is a very elementary explanation.)

Some dikes are huge and some are miniscule. We saw the dike pictured above on Skull Rock Trail. Reminds me of old, decayed teeth.

To delve more into dikes and other geologic formations found in Joshua Tree, click HERE.

Heart Rock

Heart Rock from Distance

First thing you need to know- you won’t find Heart Rock on the official park map (at least not on the one I got in 2024). To get to Heart Rock, you’ll need to go to the Arch Rock trailhead on Pinto Basin Road about 2.3 miles south of Park Boulevard. Parking is available at Twin Tanks. Better start this hike early if you want to get a parking spot, especially in the busy season.

The trail to Heart Rock is an easy detour from the Arch Rock Trail

As you head clockwise on the loop toward Arch Rock, look for the marked spur trail on your left leading to the heart (about .5 mile into the hike). You will see the heart in the distance. Plan to do the whole 1.6-mile Arch Rock loop to see both the arch and Heart Rock. Believe me, it’s worth it. The whole shebang took us 1.5 hours including time for lots of photos. Yeah, about the photos…

We did not get the cheesy “I Love Us” Heart Rock photo that I wanted. Why? Our tripod was still in the car. The same tripod I make Gary haul to every place we don’t need it. But I didn’t sweat it, because I had an idea.

I balanced the camera on a rock, used the self-timer with a 10 second window, and ran straight to the Heart for the shot. That strategy was incredibly successful. No picture. I did come close to breaking my camera, though.

Could I have hiked back to the car to get the tripod? Yes. Should I have hiked back to get it? Yes. I’m always learning a hard lesson when it comes to photography.

Look at this view from Heart Rock Trail! Gneiss! (Little geology reference.)

Arch Rock

From Heart Rock, backtrack to join up with Arch Rock Trail. Enjoy the views and notice the little things in addition to all the “big” surrounding you. These small stones in piles atop large and sometimes difficult to access rocks were an anomaly. You can find them all along the trail. How did they get there? Did people toss them? Like skipping rocks just to see if they can do it?

See how some rocks are sitting on an angle? You would think gravity would make them slide off. I’m assuming they don’t slide off for the same reason the boulders are loved by climbers young and old. These boulders got grip, baby!

Small rocks sitting on top of a large boulder on the Arch Rock Trail in Joshua Tree National Park

A few more minutes, and you’ll find yourself standing below Arch Rock. We love natural arches. They never fail to impress. You can do some bouldering and get right in front of the arch. Again, I felt too old to go for it that day.

Hiker Below Arch Rock

And to cap it off…

Cap Rock

To get to Cap Rock Trail from Arch Rock, you must drive back to Park Boulevard and turn left to head toward Skull Rock. You will pass the Ryan Mountain Trail and continue until you get to the intersection of Keys View Road and Park Boulevard. Turn left on Keys View and look for the Cap Rock trailhead.

This is an easy .4-mile nature walk that is level with a packed dirt surface and is ADA accessible. So beautiful!

Cap Rock Trail Surface

I loved this trail! The rocks, the views of the Joshua trees, the flowers- spectacular! We did this trail in late afternoon after a picnic and hike at Hidden Valley Trail and a drive up to Keys View. Perfect timing!

I’ve also heard early morning is a good time to visit Cap Rock, but no matter what time you get there you’ll find yourself convinced. Joshua Tree is one special place.

Alligator Head Shaped Rock
Reminds me of an Elton John song.

As you wind around the trail, you’ll get up-close and personal with the stand-out rocks and flora. Around the next bend, you’ll be stunned by expansive views of the Joshua trees and mountains. This is how you do desert!

Bright Orange Flowers on Cap Rock Trail

Was I right, or was I right? Joshua Tree National Park is best served on the rocks! If you’ve visited Joshua Tree, which was your favorite Rock? Let me know in the Comments!

The Stone Cold Truth

I said I’d give you genuine accounts of my travels. I’m sure there are other people who have visited Joshua Tree National Park who totally disagree, but…

If I had this trip to do over again, I’d skip Skull Rock Trail. Completely. I’d get the roadside photo, but that’s it. That’s the Instagram shot anyway! I found the views on Split Rock more stunning and wish I’d spent much more time there.

Keep in mind, I don’t have kids, so maybe my opinion would be different if I did. I’m sure if I was a kid, Skull Rock Trail would be the only trail I’d be excited about. There’s a skull there, after all.

Getting kids excited about parks is a priority for me- one of my passions. So, if your kids are excited to do Skull Rock Trail, I say do it! Do whatever it takes to keep them interested and learning.

Read my post “Junior Rangers Never Get Old” for more about the importance of getting kids in parks.


And if you care to share…

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