You’ve heard of Meriwether Lewis, right? The Lewis of Lewis and Clark, America’s most famous explorers? I’ve been a fan of Lewis and Clark history for many years, but I wasn’t interested in visiting the Meriwether Lewis Site until just a few weeks ago.
What caused my sudden interest? The same thing that caused me to fall in love with Lewis and Clark history in the first place- a book. This time it was By His Own Hand?- The Mysterious Death of Meriwether Lewis.
I believe Lewis committed suicide on the Old Trace at Grinder’s Stand (Stephen Ambrose told me so in Undaunted Courage), but historian John Guice in By His Own Hand? proposes- ain’t no way. Guice says Lewis was more likely murdered and he makes a pretty darn good case. At the very least, he creates reasonable doubt. For me, anyway.
Which was it- suicide or murder?
Exactly how Meriwether Lewis died on October 11, 1809, is a fierce and polarizing debate among Lewis & Clark historians, but all agree on this. Meriwether Lewis’ death is the greatest unsolved mystery of American history. And it happened just two hours from my house! How could I not visit the possible crime scene? So, my husband and I set off to see it the week before the 216th anniversary of Lewis’ death.
Where is the Meriwether Lewis Site?
The Meriwether Lewis Site is located at mile marker 385.9 on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Hohenwald, Tennessee just 80 miles southwest of Nashville. The Natchez Trace is a 444-mile road from Mississippi to Tennessee that originated as an Indian trail used for travel and trade.
“The Trace” as locals call it, is a National Park property with historic points of interest and 60 miles of hiking trails. The Trace is especially beautiful in mid-late October when the leaves put on a spectacular show of color.
Meriwether Lewis Site Highlights
I doubt you’ll find any clues at the Meriwether Lewis Site to solve The Great Mystery on the Natchez Trace, but you will find the place where the famed explorer took his last breath at Grinder’s Stand, the historic Old Trace he took to get there, and the monument underneath which his remains are allegedly buried.
I say “allegedly” because many descendants of Meriwether Lewis refuse to believe he committed suicide and want the matter settled by a forensic examination of his remains. But are there any remains left? Were there ever any there?
A formal coroner’s inquest was held in Hohenwald, TN in 1996 to determine the cause of death. The jury concluded that Lewis’ remains must be exhumed for the suicide/murder debate to be settled. But the National Park Service refused to authorize exhumation. Why? I wonder. Why deny a request that could only serve to make our written history more accurate? Because it sets a bad precedent? Or because the National Park Service isn’t sure Lewis’ remains are under the monument?
The exact location of Meriwether Lewis’ death has been called into question, too. We’ve been told he died at Grinder’s Stand, but a postal rider coming through the area in October 1809 claimed to have found Lewis’ body in a ditch along The Trace. Which is it? Might it be neither?
I choose to believe he died at Grinder’s Stand.
Grinder’s Stand
“Stands” were rustic inns located within a day’s travel of each other along the Old Natchez Trace. Grinder’s Stand was a common stop for travelers headed to/from Nashville, TN. Meriwether Lewis arrived at Grinder’s on October 10, 1809, and died there in the early hours of October 11th.
Why was Lewis on the Natchez Trace? There’s an interesting story about that, too. Look it up.
The structure at the Meriwether Lewis Site is not the original Grinder’s Stand, but a reconstruction of how the inn might have looked based on research of similar sites.
National Park Service literature says the inn’s original hearthstones can be seen outside, but I couldn’t find them and there was no park ranger to show me. A government shut down beginning October 1, 2025, required most park rangers to temporarily vacate their posts.
When the government isn’t shut down, the visitor center inside Grinder’s Stand is usually open and staffed on the weekends. Check the Meriwether Lewis Site website for more information.
There were two things I found most intriguing about Grinder’s Stand. First the area around it where Meriwether Lewis was said to have stumbled around a few hours after shooting himself twice, once in the head and once in the abdomen. I imagined the gruesome scene.
Seems unlikely a man could shoot himself twice and walk around for a few hours afterward, don’t you think?
The other intriguing thing at Grinder’s Stand was this small suicide prevention sticker in the visitor center window. I wonder how many people come to this site and don’t even notice it?
Is there a genuine concern about people coming to the site with the intent to follow Meriwether Lewis’ example and commit suicide? Has anyone actually ever done it or tried? I’m sure a park ranger could have told me.
Hiking Trails
There are several interconnecting trails at the Meriwether Lewis Site, and we hiked them all in about 2.5 hours. We started with the Footsteps Through History Trail located at Grinder’s Stand.
The Footsteps Trail is an easy flat 1/2 mile (.8 km) walk featuring metal cutouts depicting travelers on the Natchez Trace, including Meriwether Lewis. Good for a quick get out of the car and stretch your legs stop. The trail is rated accessible by the National Park Service.
After we walked the Footsteps Through History Trail, we hiked the Old Trace/Swan Creek trails as a loop for a total distance of approximately 3 miles (4.8 km). The trail winds through a primarily deciduous forest and along a trickling creek.
Parts of the Old Trace/Swan Creek route have moderate-challenging uphill sections and are less maintained but overall, the trail is pretty easy for the average hiker. I’d be happy to do this hike again with bug spray next time. Some kind of tiny bug bit the fire out of my legs. And I wore hiking pants!
Meriwether Lewis National Monument
The monument was created by the Tennessee legislature in 1848. It became a national monument under the management of the National Park Service in 1925. Meriwether Lewis’ remains are buried beneath it (probably).
A simple tapered grave marker called a shaft sits atop the stone block platform. The top of the shaft is broken for a reason. In the 19th century, a broken shaft signified a life cut short and Meriwether Lewis’ life was definitely that. He died at only 35 years of age. Imagine what Lewis may have accomplished if he had lived a longer life. But could any achievement have been more significant than his opening of the American West?
A Site for the Books
As we walked around the Meriwether Lewis Site, I wondered how many visitors knew anything about the questionable circumstances behind Lewis’ death. The National Park Service plaques indicate his death was by “mysterious means”, but the mystery’s depth isn’t revealed.
To me, this site would be far less compelling – just another historic site where I could get a photo- if I didn’t know the backstory. The Meriwether Lewis site is one for the books. I guarantee reading about Lewis’ life and death, even a little, will greatly enhance your visit.
Now that you know a teeny-tiny bit more the backstory, I hope you’ll be inspired to visit the Meriwether Lewis Site and learn more about the mystery surrounding it.
Let me know what you think in the comments. Suicide? Murder? And ask yourself these questions- “How truthful are our history books and what should happen if we discover they aren’t?” Inquiring minds want to know.